NRS Inflatable Boat Use and Care Instructions
Inflating & Deflating Rafts
To properly inflate an NRS raft, open all the
valves and work your way around the boat in a clockwise direction, filling
each chamber evenly, until it takes shape. Next go around the
boat in a counterclockwise direction bringing each chamber to pressure.
The tubes should be filled to a maximum of 2.5 psi (pounds per square
inch). After the main chambers are inflated, inflate the thwarts
until each thwart takes shape. Then top off until firm (about
2 - 2.5 psi). If the raft floor is self-bailing, inflate the floor
until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small amount of air.
A maximum of 2.5 psi is the recommended inflation pressure for NRS floors.
A properly inflated boat should still "give" just a bit.
As air temperature changes, the pressure in the raft
chambers should be adjusted. Changes in the temperature frequently
result in raft over inflation. For example, cold morning temperatures
reduce the boat pressure. The boater adds additional air.
Later, as the weather warms up, the raft becomes rock hard. This
often occurs after lunch breaks when the boat is sitting in the hot
sun. You must let some air out because this over pressurization
can lead to significant problems.
Today's high-quality rafts may take substantially
higher pressures than suggested by the manufacturer without showing
any short-term effects. However, over inflation does strain the
seams and can cause problems later in the life of the raft. The
greatest danger of over inflation is explosive decompression.
If the over inflated raft strikes a sharp object with enough force to
puncture the material, the tube may explode. The NRS product
warranty does not cover explosive decompression.
To properly deflate an NRS boat, open the valves on
the thwarts, floor, and the last chamber that was filled before topping
off. This will take the pressure off of all chambers at once.
Then continue around the boat opening the remaining valves.
Inflating & Deflating Inflatable Kayaks
To properly inflate an NRS IK, inflate both
main tubes until they take shape. Then top off until firm, to
a maximum of 2.5 psi. Because of the small tube size slight over
inflation of the tubes is acceptable to increase performance.
Then inflate the floor until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small
amount of air. Finally, inflate the thwarts, again to a maximum
of 2.5 psi.
To properly deflate an IK just open all the valves.
Inflating & Deflating Catarafts
To properly inflate an NRS Cataraft, open all
valves, inflate the center chamber of each tube until it takes shape.
Then inflate the outer chambers to a maximum of 2.5 psi. Last
- fill center chamber to 2.5 psi.
To properly deflate, lock open the center chamber
valve of each tube. This will allow pressure to be released from
all chambers at once. Then lock open the remaining valve.
Mounting Frames
Raft Frame Mounting
First, be sure you select the correct frame for your
boat by conferring with an NRS Customer Service Representative on model
and dimensions. Carefully follow the frame assembly instructions.
After assembling the frame, place it on your boat. Generally,
the frame will rest on the wear patches, but there are exceptions. (A
stern frame rests on the stern tube of the boat). When the frame
is positioned where you want it (generally centered on the boat), attach
it to the raft's D-rings with NRS HD Straps.
Cinch tight, keeping the frame straight and centered.
Cataraft Frame Mounting
Trial and error is the key phrase here. Generally,
you want the weight slightly forward of the lateral center of the tubes.
With single seat sport frames, the oarsperson should be sitting forward
of the center of the boat. With touring frames that have 2+ seats,
the total weight may be closer to the center of the boat. This
will increase performance characteristics and prevent the boat from
"nosing in" or riding bow high.
Start by positioning the frame so weight is distributed
slightly forward. Then strap the outside D-rings to the
upper side rails, cinching them until they are snug. Next, strap
the inside D-rings to the lower side rails or the front and back yokes
for the frame corners. Cinch these down tight. This will
pull the tube toward the frame and tighten the outside straps.
Align the other tube across from the first and repeat these steps.
Valves
All NRS boats built after 1995 have Leafield
Valves. Rafts built between 1996 and February, 1999, have the
Leafield B-7 valve. Rafts built after February, 1999, have the
Leafield C-7 valve. We feel that these valves are the highest
quality and most functional on the market.
Opening and Closing Valves
To open a valve, unscrew the plastic cover.
Then press down the spring loaded stem inside the valve and turn counterclockwise.
The valve will lock in the open position. To close the valve,
push down on the stem and turn clockwise. The stem will pop up
into the closed position. Finally, screw the plastic cap back
on to create an air and watertight seal.
Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
All NRS boats with inflatable floor (self-bailing)
have a second valve called a pressure relief valve (PRV). This
valve is a very important part of the floor system. All NRS inflatable
floors have I-beams, which produce the ridges you see in the floor.
If the floor is inflated to a pressure higher than 2.5 psi, the life
of your boat could be shortened. To solve this problem, we install
PRVs, which release any excess pressure above 2.5 psi.
Cleaning Fill Valves
If your valves are not airtight, dirt or sand
may have worked into the valve. Cleaning the valve should solve
this problem. First deflate the tube of the valve to be cleaned.
Dip a cotton-tipped swab into 303
Protectant and wipe the inside of the valve. The rubber plunger
in the bottom of the valve is the most important part of the valve to
clean. After thoroughly cleaning the valve, re-inflate the tube.
*You may have to remove the valve from the raft to fully clean.
Then use the valve wrench supplied in the boat repair kit to tighten
the valve assembly on the tube. To ensure air retention, occasionally
test and tighten the valve with your wrench if it loosens from use.
Cleaning Pressure Relief Valves
(PRVs)
Because of its position in the boat, the PRV
tends to need cleaning more often than fill valves. The PRV needs
to be cleaned when the floor does not stay at inflated pressure for
a long period of time. The PRV can easily be cleaned. With
the floor inflated, loosen the PRV with your valve wrench until a small
volume of air begins to hiss out. Then fully deflate the floor by opening
the floor fill valve. Now unscrew the PRV from the floor.
Be sure not to lose the white plastic nut inside the floor.
Rinse the inside of the PRV with clean water. Blowing through
the PRV will aid cleaning. Hand screw the PRV into place, then
re-inflate the floor and tighten the PRV with your valve wrench.
Note: If the PRV still does not hold air pressure, fir the rubber stopper
in the repair kit over the PRV to stop it from leaking. Until
you can replace the PRV, you will have to monitor the pressure in the
floor to make sure it does not over inflate.
Poppet Cleaning / Replacement for
B-7 Fill Valve {Used on NRS Boats 1996 - Feb. 1999}
If a fill valve will still not hold air after
the cleaning recommended above, you need to clean the poppet assembly.
The poppet includes the white plastic stem, a spring, and the rubber
plunger at the base of the stem. With the tube inflated, loosen
the valve, then deflate the tube. After deflating the tube, unscrew
the valve completely. Be sure not to lose the valve inside the
tube. Push in the valve plunger so it is in the open position.
Flip the valve upside down so the rubber plunger is facing up towards
the hole. Unscrew the rubber plug (Note: this will release the
valve so the poppet stem and spring do not eject into the tube.)
If the plug will not unscrew by hand, use a pair of pliers. Now
invert the valve and remove the poppet stem and spring. Clean
these parts with a suitable cleaning solvent - 303
Protectant or alcohol. Clean any sand or dirt from the valve
to ensure a clean seat for the rubber plug. Insert the cleaned
stem and spring into the valve casing and twist the valve into the open
position. Invert the valve and screw the rubber plug onto the
stem. Twist the valve into the closed position, invert the valve
again, and position it in the valve hole. Screw on the top half
of the valve hand tight. Inflate the tube and tighten the valve
with your valve wrench. If this cleaning does not solve the valve
leak, the poppet assembly can be replaced using the B-7
Leafield valve repair kit. Replacing the poppet following
the above instructions for cleaning produces a reconditioned valve,
ready for extended use.
Poppet Cleaning/Replacement for C-7 Valves
{Used on NRS Boats after Feb. 1999}
The C-7 valve poppet includes a gray plastic stem,
a spring, and the rubber plunger at the base of the stem.With the tube
inflated, loosen the valve, then deflate the tube.After deflating the
tube, unscrew the valve completely.Be sure not to lose the gray plastic
base inside the tube.The C-7 poppet assembly part of the valve is removable
from the tube.If the general cleaning procedure with 303 is not effective,
you can remove the poppet assembly.Pull of the black rubber plug from
the valve stem.Twist the stem into the closed position.This will cause
the stem and spring to fall out.Clean any dirt or sand from the valve,
including the gray plastic nut inside the tube, to ensure a clean seat
for the new rubber plunger.Replace the stem and spring into the valve
housing and twist into the open position.Now replace the rubber plug
on the stem.Screw the valve back into the gray base inside the tube,
hand tight.Inflate the tube and tighten the valve with your valve wrench.If
this cleaning does not solve the valve air leak, the poppet assembly
can be replaced using the C-7
Valve Repair Kit.
Maintenance &Cleaning
Avoiding or eliminating moisture inside boat
tubes and the floor is the owner's responsibility.Repairs on the river
might unavoidably leave some moisture in tubes.Leaving valves open in
wet weather can allow moisture to accumulate in tubes and the floor.Leaving
any moisture in tubes for extended periods can cause mildew and deterioration.To
prevent any accumulation of moisture or mildew, open the chamber's valve
and dry by blowing air into the tube with a vacuum or pump.Exchange
air several times to drive moisture out.If possible remove the valve
and insert the air hose through the valve hole. Let air flow continually
for several hours until all moisture is gone.Proper care and maintenance
improves the boat's appearance and longevity.Clean and inspect the boat
after each use.NRS recommends 303
Protectant for long-term boat care.Coating your boat with 303 periodically
will increase the longevity of the fabric.
Boat Repair -
For step by step instructions with illustrations
see our Hypalon® Boat Repair Instructions
Glues and cleaners are toxic. Always work
in a well ventilated area with a good respirator. Always use proper
protection for your skin and eyes. Assemble what you will need
- Hypalon® fabric, wet/dry
sand paper, a roller/rasp,
and glue (we recommend Clifton
Hypalon® Adhesive). All of these are in the repair kit included
with your raft. Measure and cut a patch that will cover the problem
area with a 2 inch border around the tear or abrasion. A circular
patch will work best for most repairs. If longer patches are needed,
round the corners of the patch to keep them from pulling up. Lay
the patch over the area to be repaired and trace around the patch.
Buff this outlined area of the boat fabric and the patch fabric.
Remove the shine from the area but be careful not to expose the threads
of the material. Exposed threads can cause problems later.
Then wipe the area with raft cleaner (toluene - available at most hardware
stores) making sure that the area is clean. Note: Glue will
not stick to an area that has 303 Protectant on it, so make sure you
clean it off with raft cleaner. Apply a thin, even coat of
adhesive to both the patch and the boat. Allow to dry until it
is just beyond tacky. This can take from 10 minutes to 2 hours
depending on the conditions. Try the knuckle test to see if it
has dried enough - touch your knuckle to the glue. You should
be able to feel adhesion without your knuckle sticking.
Then apply a second thin even coat of glue to both
patch and boat. Again, wait until the glue is just beyond tacky.
Carefully place the patch in position and press down evenly making sure
there are no wrinkles in the fabric. Remember you are using a
contact cement - once in contact, repositioning is almost impossible.
Wrinkles and bubbles may be rolled out. However, if the patch
needs considerable repositioning, you will have to start all over again
by removing all the glue, cleaning the surfaces, and reapplying new
coats. Finally, use the roller, working from the center to the
edges, and roll the patch applying as much pressure as possible to ensure
a strong bond.
Allow the repair to dry for at the least 2 hours.
It is preferable to allow the patch to dry overnight, but if this is
not feasible, inflate the raft to a lower pressure than full inflation.
For small scrapes, clean the area with raft cleaner
and let it dry. Next take some Gacoflex
and apply a thin layer over the area. Let the Gacoflex dry - and
the repair is done. Note: If a bubble forms in the Gacoflex,
there is an air leak and a patch needs to be applied.
If you have difficulty with repairs or have questions,
please call our Customer Service Department at
1.877.677.7370
for assistance or email service@nrsweb.com
Many difficult repairs are best performed by an authorized
raft repair center. Please contact us for more information an
a repair center in your area.
Transport
When transporting, take all precautions to keep water
out of the tubes. If you are transporting your boat inflated,
bleed off air pressure so the boat "gives" under hand pressure.
Remember the caution about temperature changes affecting pressure, especially
in direct sunlight. Boaters sometimes do not think about the effects
of higher altitude on pressure. Before driving into higher altitudes,
reduce pressure. Whether transporting your boat inflated or deflated,
ensure all valve caps are in place. Inspect the load for any articles
which could rub, abrade, or puncture the boat's fabric. Remember
that any sand or other debris left in the boat could cause wear on the
fabric during transport, especially if the boat is deflated. The NRS
Boat Bag is a great way to keep debris out of your inflatable during
transportation.
Storage
If possible, let your boat dry before deflating.
Roll up and pack the boat with natural air remaining in the tubes.
Do not use a vacuum to suck out the remaining air unless packing procedures
absolutely require it. Make sure all valve caps are in place before
storing. If possible, store the boat spread out in a cool place
with some air in the tubes. If this is not possible, store loosely
rolled under the same conditions.
NRS Limited Warranty
All NRS boats are fully guaranteed to the original owner against defects
in materials and workmanship, under the terms listed below. NRS is not
responsible for the effects of normal wear and tear, accidents, abuse,
alteration, modification, misuse or improper care. Purchaser's sole
and exclusive remedy under this limited warranty will be for NRS to
repair or replace defective product, at NRS's sole discretion.
NRS makes no other express warranties beyond the terms of this limited
warranty. NRS will not be responsible for any consequential, incidental
or special damages resulting from the use or performance of NRS products.
NRS Boat Warranty Policy:
The NRS boat warranty policy covers any NRS manufactured boat or label;
i.e. NRS, Otter, Livery, Riken and Urethane series products. Upon contact
from the original owner, NRS will evaluate the warranty issue and, upon
approval of the warranty claim NRS will either repair or replace the
NRS boat, at NRS’s sole discretion.
NRS Expedition Rafts , MaverIK Kayaks and Catarafts
5-year commercial warranty
NRS Otter and Livery Series Rafts
3-year commercial warranty
NRS Bandit I and Bandit II Urethane Kayaks
3-year commercial warranty
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